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YOUR ENERGY PROFILE.
This document contains the sizing of your future electrical installation, calculated based on your appliances.
Inventory:
To guarantee 0WH without damaging your bank (80% max discharge):
Minimum power required to recharge your consumption:
Maximum power (with 25% safety margin).
Use this professional reference table to select the correct gauge (mm²) for your cables. For 12V in a van, the maximum tolerated voltage drop is 3%. Always use multi-stranded flexible automotive wire.
| Current (A) | Round trip < 2m | Round trip 4m | Round trip 6m |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5A (LEDs, USB) | 1.5 mm² | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² |
| 10A (Fridge, Pump) | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² | 6 mm² |
| 20A (Heater) | 4 mm² | 10 mm² | 10 mm² |
| 50A (DC/DC Booster) | 10 mm² | 16 mm² | 25 mm² |
| 100A (Inverter) | 25 mm² | 35 mm² | 50 mm² |
The fuse protects the wire, not the appliance. Always place it as close to the power source as possible (battery or busbar).
0W
0 Ah
Lithium LiFePO4
Pompe, Leds, Frigo...
NON REQUI
SHOPPING LIST
Where to find this equipment? Here is the community-approved selection.
12V 6-way Fuse Box
Mandatory protection
Digital Multimeter
Test your connections
Heavy Duty Crimping Tool
For perfect lugs
Heat Shrink Tubing
Insulation and safety

Results based on a typical use case
| Appliance | Power | Usage/day | Wh/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression fridge | 45W | 24h | 1080 |
| LED lighting | 20W | 4h | 80 |
| Water pump | 30W | 0.5h | 15 |
| Phone charging | 15W | 2h | 30 |
| Daily consumption | 1205 Wh | ||
Adjust these values with the calculator below
Let me give you real sizing recommendations based on hundreds of van builds I've seen.
For a small van (VW Transporter, Ford Transit Custom, ~6-8m³ insulated): a 2kW heater is perfect. It'll hold 20°C down to about -15°C outside. At full output, fuel consumption is roughly 0.10-0.12 L/hour. On low, it sips about 0.04 L/hour. That means a 10L fuel tank lasts 4-10 days depending on conditions.
For a medium van (Sprinter 144", Transit L3, ~10-14m³ insulated): a 2kW heater still works down to about -5°C outside. If you camp in serious winter conditions regularly, a 5kW gives you headroom — just make sure you run it at medium, not low, to avoid the cycling problem. Fuel consumption on a 5kW at medium is about 0.16-0.20 L/hour.
For a large van or bus conversion (Sprinter 170", school bus, ~15-25m³): a 5kW is the minimum. For poorly insulated or very large builds over 20m³, the 8kW makes sense. An 8kW heater at full output burns about 0.30-0.38 L/hour.
Altitude derating matters and almost nobody accounts for it. Diesel combustion efficiency drops about 1% per 100m of elevation above sea level. At 2,000m (6,500 ft), your heater loses roughly 20% of its rated output. A 5kW heater effectively becomes a 4kW heater. If you ski camp or boondock at altitude regularly, size up.
One more factor: windows. Glass is a thermal disaster — R-value of about R-1. A van with a large rear window and two side windows loses significantly more heat than one with solid insulated panels. Each square meter of single-pane glass adds roughly 800-1,000 BTU/h of heat loss at a 30°C delta-T.
The Chinese diesel heaters (Vevor, Hcalory, generic "all-in-one" units) work surprisingly well for the price. The 2kW units run $80-150, the 5kW units $100-200. They're noisy on high (the combustion fan is the main culprit) but at medium to low output, cabin noise is typically 40-50 dB. The Webasto Air Top 2000 STC and Eberspacher Airtronic D2 are the premium alternatives at $800-1,200 — quieter, better built, and easier to get serviced, but the heating output is comparable to a Chinese 2kW unit.
Links marked with * are affiliate links. If a purchase is made through them, I receive a commission at no extra cost to you. The editorial selection and product evaluation are not influenced by commission rates. Your click helps fund this free tool.