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YOUR ENERGY PROFILE.
This document contains the sizing of your future electrical installation, calculated based on your appliances.
Inventory:
To guarantee 0WH without damaging your bank (80% max discharge):
Minimum power required to recharge your consumption:
Maximum power (with 25% safety margin).
Use this professional reference table to select the correct gauge (mm²) for your cables. For 12V in a van, the maximum tolerated voltage drop is 3%. Always use multi-stranded flexible automotive wire.
| Current (A) | Round trip < 2m | Round trip 4m | Round trip 6m |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5A (LEDs, USB) | 1.5 mm² | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² |
| 10A (Fridge, Pump) | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² | 6 mm² |
| 20A (Heater) | 4 mm² | 10 mm² | 10 mm² |
| 50A (DC/DC Booster) | 10 mm² | 16 mm² | 25 mm² |
| 100A (Inverter) | 25 mm² | 35 mm² | 50 mm² |
The fuse protects the wire, not the appliance. Always place it as close to the power source as possible (battery or busbar).
0W
0 Ah
Lithium LiFePO4
Pompe, Leds, Frigo...
NON REQUI
SHOPPING LIST
Where to find this equipment? Here is the community-approved selection.
12V 6-way Fuse Box
Mandatory protection
Digital Multimeter
Test your connections
Heavy Duty Crimping Tool
For perfect lugs
Heat Shrink Tubing
Insulation and safety

Results based on a typical use case
| Appliance | Power | Usage/day | Wh/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression fridge | 45W | 24h | 1080 |
| LED lighting | 20W | 4h | 80 |
| Water pump | 30W | 0.5h | 15 |
| Phone charging | 15W | 2h | 30 |
| Daily consumption | 1205 Wh | ||
Adjust these values with the calculator below
| Spec | 12V System | 24V System |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Use | Vans, small campers | Box trucks, large builds |
| Max Inverter (practical) | 3,000W | 5,000W+ |
| Cable Size for 2000W | 50mm² (1/0 AWG) | 25mm² (4 AWG) |
| Current at 2000W | ~185A | ~92A |
| Component Availability | Excellent — widest choice | Limited — fewer options |
| Appliance Compatibility | All 12V accessories work | Need 24V-to-12V converter |
| Voltage Drop (3m run, 100A) | Significant | Half of 12V |
| Battery Options | Abundant, all sizes | Fewer choices, higher cost |
| Fuse Ratings | Higher amperage needed | Standard ratings work |
| Best For | Most van builds | Large systems >3000W |
I've done both. My Sprinter build is 12V with 300Ah LiFePO4 and a 2000W inverter — works great for normal vanlife. The cable run to the inverter is heavy (50mm², about 1.5m each side) but manageable. On a box truck conversion I helped with last year, we went 24V because the owner wanted a 3000W inverter for an induction cooktop and a small AC unit. In 12V that would've meant 278A continuous — you'd need 70mm² cables and a 350A fuse. In 24V it was 139A, much more reasonable with 35mm² cable. The tradeoff was needing a Victron Orion 24|12-20 step-down for the Dometic CFX fridge, the MaxxFan, and all the LED strips. Added about $250 and another point of failure. For vans under 25 feet, I'd say 12V every time unless you have a specific high-power need.
Links marked with * are affiliate links. If a purchase is made through them, I receive a commission at no extra cost to you. The editorial selection and product evaluation are not influenced by commission rates. Your click helps fund this free tool.
£20BLUETTI