Loading...
Undersized solar wiring is the #1 invisible performance killer in DIY camper builds. If your wire is too thin, voltage drop between the panels and charge controller can steal 10-20% of your solar production — you'd never notice unless you measured. The National Electrical Code recommends keeping voltage drop below 3% for solar circuits. On a 12V system, that's a drop of less than 0.4V — surprisingly easy to exceed with long wire runs.
For a typical van setup (2-3 panels, 200-600W total, wire run under 20 feet from panels to controller), 10 AWG (6mm²) solar wire handles up to 30A and keeps voltage drop under 3% for most configurations. This is the EXPLORIST.life-recommended shortcut that works for 90% of van builds. Use 10 AWG MC4-terminated solar cable for the roof-to-interior run and you're set.
For longer runs or higher-wattage arrays: (1) Determine your maximum short-circuit current (Isc) for the array. (2) Measure the total wire length (round trip, panel to controller and back). (3) Use Ohm's law: Voltage Drop = Current × Resistance × Length. For 10 AWG copper wire, resistance is 3.28 Ω per 1000 feet. Example: 30A × 0.00328 Ω/ft × 30 ft = 2.95V drop on a 40V circuit = 7.4% — too high! Size up to 8 AWG (1.64 Ω/1000ft): 30A × 0.00164 × 30 = 1.47V = 3.7% — borderline. Use 6 AWG for margin.
Wiring panels in series increases voltage but keeps current the same, which means you can use thinner wire with less voltage drop. Wiring in parallel keeps voltage the same but increases current, requiring thicker wire. For a van with 3 × 200W panels: In series (120V, 10A) → 10 AWG is plenty. In parallel (40V, 30A) → you may need 6-8 AWG depending on run length. This is why series wiring is preferred for van solar when your MPPT can handle the higher voltage.

Results based on a typical use case
| Appliance | Power | Usage/day | Wh/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression fridge | 45W | 24h | 1080 |
| LED lighting | 20W | 4h | 80 |
| Water pump | 30W | 0.5h | 15 |
| Phone charging | 15W | 2h | 30 |
| Daily consumption | 1205 Wh | ||
Adjust these values with the calculator below
YOUR ENERGY PROFILE.
This document contains the sizing of your future electrical installation, calculated based on your appliances.
Inventory:
To guarantee 0WH without damaging your bank (80% max discharge):
Minimum power required to recharge your consumption:
Maximum power (with 25% safety margin).
Use this professional reference table to select the correct gauge (mm²) for your cables. For 12V in a van, the maximum tolerated voltage drop is 3%. Always use multi-stranded flexible automotive wire.
| Current (A) | Round trip < 2m | Round trip 4m | Round trip 6m |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5A (LEDs, USB) | 1.5 mm² | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² |
| 10A (Fridge, Pump) | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² | 6 mm² |
| 20A (Heater) | 4 mm² | 10 mm² | 10 mm² |
| 50A (DC/DC Booster) | 10 mm² | 16 mm² | 25 mm² |
| 100A (Inverter) | 25 mm² | 35 mm² | 50 mm² |
The fuse protects the wire, not the appliance. Always place it as close to the power source as possible (battery or busbar).
0W
0 Ah
Lithium LiFePO4
Pompe, Leds, Frigo...
NON REQUI
SHOPPING LIST
Where to find this equipment? Here is the community-approved selection.
12V 6-way Fuse Box
Mandatory protection
Digital Multimeter
Test your connections
Heavy Duty Crimping Tool
For perfect lugs
Heat Shrink Tubing
Insulation and safety
| Wire Gauge (AWG) | Max Current (A) | Resistance (Ω/1000ft) | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12 AWG | 20A | 5.21 | Single small panel (<150W) |
| 10 AWG | 30A | 3.28 | Most van setups (200-400W) |
| 8 AWG | 40A | 2.06 | Larger arrays in parallel |
| 6 AWG | 55A | 1.30 | High-power systems (800W+) |
Getting solar panel wiring right is critical for both safety and efficiency. Under-sized cables cause resistive losses that reduce your solar production. Over-sized cables waste money. Here's exactly how to size solar wiring for every part of your campervan solar system.
Run 1: Panel to Panel (string/parallel connections) Run 2: String/array output to MPPT (PV cable) Run 3: MPPT output to Battery (battery cable)
Each has different voltage and current characteristics.
Panel interconnects carry the full short-circuit current (Isc). For a typical 200W panel, Isc ≈ 10-11A:
| Panel Configuration | Current | Recommended Wire | AWG Equivalent |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1× panel (to MPPT) | 10-11A | 4mm² | 12 AWG |
| 2× in parallel | 20-22A | 6mm² | 10 AWG |
| 3× in parallel | 30-33A | 10mm² | 8 AWG |
| 2× in series (to MPPT) | 10-11A | 4mm² | 12 AWG (same current, doubled voltage) |
Use UV-resistant PV (solar) cable for any outdoor roof runs. Standard automotive or household cable degrades quickly in UV exposure.
This is the highest-current run in your system. Size for MPPT rated output:
| MPPT Size | Output Current | Cable Size | Max Run Length (3% drop) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20A MPPT | 20A | 4mm² | 4m |
| 30A MPPT | 30A | 6mm² | 3m |
| 40A MPPT | 40A | 6-10mm² | 2-3m |
| 50A MPPT | 50A | 10mm² | 2.5m |
| 60A MPPT | 60A | 16mm² | 2m |
Never route solar cables through gland holes without sealing. Every roof penetration point is a potential water ingress point. Use:
Route inside the van: Run cables along interior wall edges hidden behind panels. Use split conduit or trunking for a clean build and to protect cables from chafing on metal edges.
PV-side fusing: Each parallel string needs a fuse or combiner box with per-string fusing. A single positive run from MPPT to battery also needs a fuse sized to the MPPT output × 125%.
Expert tip: Use MC4 connectors for all roof-level solar connections — they're weather-rated, click-lock, and universally compatible between panel brands. Never use bare wire terminals on the roof where they'll be exposed to moisture and vibration from driving.
Links marked with * are affiliate links. If a purchase is made through them, I receive a commission at no extra cost to you. The editorial selection and product evaluation are not influenced by commission rates. Your click helps fund this free tool.