Van Inverter Size Calculator

Calculate exactly what size inverter your van needs. Don't oversize or undersize — get the right watts for your conversion.

Choosing an inverter that's too small means constant overload shutdowns. Too large means wasted battery power and inefficiency. Find the sweet spot for your van build.
⚡ Expert tip
Most van builders buy a 2000W inverter "just in case" and run it at 50-100W daily. An inverter at 5% load has 10-15% efficiency — you lose 10-20W just keeping it on standby. Right-sizing to a 300W unit for daily use, with a separate 2000W for cooking, beats a single oversized inverter on efficiency.

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Comparison table

Power (W)Device alimentableMax 12V drawMin wire gauge
300WLaptop + charges30A10 AWG
600WTV, small appliances60A6 AWG
1,200WCoffee maker, microwave110A2 AWG
2,000WStandard hair dryer180A1/0 AWG
3,000WPortable induction270A2/0 AWG

About this tool

Inverter sizing for a campervan starts with a single question: what is the highest continuous wattage device you plan to plug in? That single number drives the specification. But there's a deeper layer — inrush current, idle consumption, and efficiency curves that can turn a reasonable inverter into an energy vampire.

The fundamental calculation: Inverter Watts needed ≥ Peak continuous load watts × 1.25 safety margin. For a coffee machine (800W) + laptop charger (90W) used simultaneously: (800 + 90) × 1.25 = 1112W. A 1500W inverter gives 35% headroom for safe operation. A 1000W inverter would run at 89% load continuously — thermally stressed and likely to shut down on hot days.

Inrush current reality: AC motors (coffee grinder, blender, angle grinder, compressor motor) draw 3-6× rated power for 20-50ms on startup. A 500W angle grinder's motor spikes to 1500-3000W at startup. Inverter surge rating matters — look for "peak/surge watts" specification: a good 1500W inverter has 3000W peak. Cheap inverters with the same continuous rating often have only 1.5-2× peak — insufficient for motor loads.

Idle consumption destroys batteries: measure the standby wattage of your specific inverter before integrating it. Cheap 2000W inverters often consume 18-25W at zero load — multiply by 24h = 432-600Wh/day of wasted energy. The Victron Phoenix 2000W at 15W idle is significantly more efficient but 3× the price. The economic calculation: if your inverter runs 12h on standby per day, 5W idle difference = 60Wh/day = 21.9kWh/year. At €0.25/kWh of battery round-trip (replacement costs included), that's €5.47/year in wasted energy — trivial. The real cost is the battery cycles and solar capacity needed to cover the waste.

Pure sine wave is mandatory for van builds: modified sine wave inverters cause audible hum in laptop PSUs, can damage CPAP motor windings over thousands of hours, and reduce efficiency in any load with reactive components (transformers, capacitors, inductors — which includes virtually all modern electronics). The €20-40 price difference for pure sine wave is never worth skipping.

Installation cable sizing for 12V systems: 1000W inverter at 12V = 83A; 2000W = 167A; 3000W = 250A. Cable must be rated for peak surge current. For a 2000W inverter: 50mm² for runs under 50cm, 70mm² for 50-100cm. The ANL fuse (not blade fuse) must be within 30cm of battery positive terminal, rated 20% above inverter's maximum current draw.

Remote on/off wiring: virtually all 300W+ inverters have a remote enable terminal. Wiring this to a dedicated 12V switch at your work desk means you can cut inverter power instantly — eliminating standby consumption while you sleep or when not actively using AC loads.

Frequently asked questions

What size inverter do I need for a campervan?
Size it for your largest single AC load plus 25%: laptop+phone chargers (200W): 300W inverter. Coffee machine (800W)+laptop: 1500W. Induction hob (1800W): 2000W+ with 3000W surge. A 2000W pure sine wave inverter handles 95% of van life use cases.
Should I get 1000W or 2000W inverter for van life?
If you will NEVER use an induction hob or anything above 800-900W: get a 1000W inverter — lighter and more efficient at partial load. If you want induction cooking: get 2000W. The most common regret is buying a 1000W then adding induction cooking later.
Pure sine wave vs modified sine wave — does it matter for van?
Always buy pure sine wave. Modified sine causes laptop PSU hum, can damage CPAP motors (important for users with sleep apnea), and reduces efficiency in motors and electronics. The €20-40 premium for pure sine is universally justified.
How do I connect a 2000W inverter to a 12V battery?
2000W÷12V = 167A continuous. Use 70mm² cable for up to 1m total cable length, 50mm² for under 50cm. Install an ANL fuse (200A rating) within 30cm of battery positive. Connect inverter chassis ground to battery negative busbar — not van chassis.
Why is my inverter getting hot?
Three causes: 1) Sustained load above 70% of rated capacity for extended periods, 2) Poor ventilation — inverters need 10cm clearance on all sides for airflow, 3) Oversize load causing sustained near-maximum operation. Thermal shutdown is the inverter protecting itself — reduce load or improve ventilation.

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