Loading...

Results based on a typical use case
| Appliance | Power | Usage/day | Wh/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression fridge | 45W | 24h | 1080 |
| LED lighting | 20W | 4h | 80 |
| Water pump | 30W | 0.5h | 15 |
| Phone charging | 15W | 2h | 30 |
| Daily consumption | 1205 Wh | ||
Adjust these values with the calculator below
YOUR ENERGY PROFILE.
This document contains the sizing of your future electrical installation, calculated based on your appliances.
Inventory:
To guarantee 0WH without damaging your bank (80% max discharge):
Minimum power required to recharge your consumption:
Maximum power (with 25% safety margin).
Use this professional reference table to select the correct gauge (mm²) for your cables. For 12V in a van, the maximum tolerated voltage drop is 3%. Always use multi-stranded flexible automotive wire.
| Current (A) | Round trip < 2m | Round trip 4m | Round trip 6m |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5A (LEDs, USB) | 1.5 mm² | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² |
| 10A (Fridge, Pump) | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² | 6 mm² |
| 20A (Heater) | 4 mm² | 10 mm² | 10 mm² |
| 50A (DC/DC Booster) | 10 mm² | 16 mm² | 25 mm² |
| 100A (Inverter) | 25 mm² | 35 mm² | 50 mm² |
The fuse protects the wire, not the appliance. Always place it as close to the power source as possible (battery or busbar).
0W
0 Ah
Lithium LiFePO4
Pompe, Leds, Frigo...
NON REQUI
SHOPPING LIST
Where to find this equipment? Here is the community-approved selection.
12V 6-way Fuse Box
Mandatory protection
Digital Multimeter
Test your connections
Heavy Duty Crimping Tool
For perfect lugs
Heat Shrink Tubing
Insulation and safety
Dew point is the rule everyone skips. At 20°C interior with 60% relative humidity (two people breathing on a normal night), air condenses the moment it hits a surface at 12°C or below. In winter, the outer steel panel sits at -5°C and its interior face creeps up to only ~5°C with thin insulation. You're sleeping under a waterfall. Bare Armaflex 19mm gives you R = 0.019 / 0.033 = 0.576, which I round to R ≈ 0.58 m²K/W. Barely acceptable for mild winter (target R≥0.6 walls, R≥0.8 roof). For Scandinavia at -15°C, go R≥1.2 walls and R≥1.5 roof.
Thermal bridges are where 80% of builds fail. Steel has λ = 50 W/(m·K), Armaflex λ = 0.033 — that's 1515× worse. An untreated roof rib becomes a 2°C strip while everything around it sits at 18°C. Result: black mold along every rib within three months. Door frames, hinges, wheel arches, seat rail mounts — all bridges. Fix it by wrapping Armaflex past the edges, using recycled PET fiber batts around ribs, and taping every rivet with aluminum foil tape. Single-glazed windows hit U ≈ 5.8 W/m²K vs 0.5 for an insulated wall — they typically account for 15-30% of heat loss in a standard van conversion (up to 30-50% in poorly insulated builds with large window areas). DIY Reflectix panels with neodymium magnets beat any €200 commercial kit.
Material choices: sheep's wool looks great on Instagram but absorbs 30% of its weight in water and molds within two winters. Spray foam in a van? Never — it off-gasses and cracks from panel vibration. Reflective bubble foil glued flat (Reflectix alone)? Useless thermally. It only works with a 2cm air gap as a radiant barrier, mainly for summer roof heat. The winner: Armaflex AF 19mm (closed-cell, acts as its own vapor barrier) plus Thinsulate or recycled PET stuffing the cavities. Never put a separate vapor barrier behind Armaflex — you'll trap moisture. Floor insulation: skip for weekend use, mandatory for full-timers (cold feet = misery). None of this matters without ventilation (Maxxfan + CO2 monitor). Two people breathe out ~1L of water per night — it has to go somewhere.
Transparency —The links below are affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I earn a small commission — at no extra cost to you. This is what allows me to keep this site free.