Campervan Solar Panel Calculator

Calculate exactly how many solar panels you need for your campervan based on your daily power consumption and location.

Our free calculator helps you size your solar array perfectly. Input your appliances, usage hours, and destination to get the minimum solar wattage required to keep your off-grid van powered year-round.
Avoid buying too many panels or constantly running out of power. This tool factors in winter efficiency and battery charging losses to give you a realistic recommendation.
⚡ Expert tip
Most van builders buy panels first and regret it: the bottleneck is almost always battery capacity, not solar surface. A 400W array on a 100Ah battery charges in 3 hours — then sits idle. Invest in battery first.

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Comparison table

Panel wattsWh/day summer (US SW)Wh/day summer (UK)Wh/day winter (UK)
100W650-750500-600100-150
200W1,300-1,5001,000-1,200200-300
300W1,950-2,2501,500-1,800300-450
400W2,600-3,0002,000-2,400400-600

About this tool

Sizing a campervan solar system starts with energy consumption — not panels. The formula works backwards from your daily energy budget to the solar array size needed to replenish it. This approach prevents the most common mistake: buying panels based on roof space before calculating actual needs.

Step 1: Daily energy budget. List every device with its rated wattage and average daily hours of use. Typical comfortable van life setup: 12V compressor fridge (380Wh/day at 22°C ambient), LED lighting (50Wh/day), laptop (480Wh/day if working), phone charging (20Wh), USB accessories (30Wh), water pump (15Wh/day). Total: 975Wh/day for a working nomad, 495Wh/day for a weekend lifestyle.

Step 2: Battery sizing. Target 2 full days of autonomy without any charging, then calculate: Wh needed = Daily consumption × 2 days ÷ battery efficiency (0.9 for LiFePO4, 0.8 for AGM). For 975Wh/day: 975 × 2 ÷ 0.9 = 2167Wh → 180Ah LiFePO4. Round up to 200Ah.

Step 3: Solar sizing. Peak solar hours (PSH) vary by location: UK/Germany average 2.5-3.5h, France/Spain 4-5h, Portugal/Italy/Greece 5-6h in summer. Formula: Solar watts = Daily Wh ÷ PSH × 1.25 safety factor. For 975Wh/day in France (4.5 PSH): 975 ÷ 4.5 × 1.25 = 271W. Nearest practical: 300W (two 150W or three 100W panels).

Step 4: MPPT controller. Size at 125% of panel short-circuit current. Two 150W panels in series: Isc = 9.72A per string, combined 9.72A (series maintains current). MPPT output at 12V: 300W ÷ 12V × 1.1 = 27.5A. Use a 30A controller minimum — Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/30 (€120) is the standard choice, handles up to 430W.

Step 5: Cable sizing from panels to controller. The panel string carries up to Isc current (9.72A for this example). 6mm² cable for runs up to 8m, 4mm² for up to 5m — this keeps cable voltage drop under 1.5% at full current.

Variables that change your solar calculation: travelling north of 52° latitude in October-February (PSH drops to 1-2h — you need 2-3× the summer panel capacity or rely more on driving/shore charging). High roof campers (L3H3 Transit) have 4m² of usable roof vs L2H2 Transit at 2.5m² — significantly more panel capacity available. Climbing mountains reduces sun angle efficiency but also reduces ambient temperature (increases panel efficiency by 0.5%/°C).

Advanced shading analysis for van roof installations: if any part of your solar array is shaded for even 1-2 hours per day (a roof vent, antenna, or overhanging trees at a regular camping spot), use bypass diodes or wire panels individually to the MPPT rather than in series strings. A single shaded 200W panel in a 400W series string reduces the entire string to the shaded panel output — potentially halving production. Separate inputs or parallel wiring eliminate this shading penalty.

Frequently asked questions

How many solar panels does a campervan need?
The correct answer depends on your daily power consumption, not just panel space. Basic van life (fridge, lights): two 100W panels = 200W. Remote work van (laptop, Starlink, fridge): three 200W panels = 600W. Calculate your Wh/day first.
What is the best positioned solar panel orientation for a van?
Flat (0° tilt) on a van roof captures 75-85% of the optimum tilted output throughout the year. Mounting at a tilt would require expensive curved racks to clear side clearance — the 15-25% gain rarely justifies the cost and wind resistance increase.
How do I connect solar panels in series vs parallel?
Series: increases voltage, keeps current constant (connect + of one panel to - of next). Best for longer cable runs (lower current = smaller wire) and MPPT controllers. Parallel: keeps voltage constant, adds current. Only use if your MPPT needs 12V input (older models).
Can solar alone power a van fridge?
Yes — a single 200W panel in summer (4+ PSH) produces 640Wh+/day, easily covering a quality 12V compressor fridge (380Wh/day). In winter UK (1.5 PSH), the same panel produces only 240Wh — insufficient without a 100Ah+ LiFePO4 battery to buffer overnight and driving charging to supplement.
How much does a van solar system cost?
DIY campervan solar: 200W panel (€120) + Victron MPPT 75/15 (€55) + 100Ah LiFePO4 (€250) + cables/fuses (€50) = €475 total. Step up: 400W panels (€220) + MPPT 100/30 (€120) + 200Ah LiFePO4 (€450) + DC-DC charger (€140) = €930. Professional installation adds €400-800 labour.

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