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Results based on a typical use case
| Appliance | Power | Usage/day | Wh/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression fridge | 45W | 24h | 1080 |
| LED lighting | 20W | 4h | 80 |
| Water pump | 30W | 0.5h | 15 |
| Phone charging | 15W | 2h | 30 |
| Daily consumption | 1205 Wh | ||
Adjust these values with the calculator below
YOUR ENERGY PROFILE.
This document contains the sizing of your future electrical installation, calculated based on your appliances.
Inventory:
To guarantee 0WH without damaging your bank (80% max discharge):
Minimum power required to recharge your consumption:
Maximum power (with 25% safety margin).
Use this professional reference table to select the correct gauge (mm²) for your cables. For 12V in a van, the maximum tolerated voltage drop is 3%. Always use multi-stranded flexible automotive wire.
| Current (A) | Round trip < 2m | Round trip 4m | Round trip 6m |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5A (LEDs, USB) | 1.5 mm² | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² |
| 10A (Fridge, Pump) | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² | 6 mm² |
| 20A (Heater) | 4 mm² | 10 mm² | 10 mm² |
| 50A (DC/DC Booster) | 10 mm² | 16 mm² | 25 mm² |
| 100A (Inverter) | 25 mm² | 35 mm² | 50 mm² |
The fuse protects the wire, not the appliance. Always place it as close to the power source as possible (battery or busbar).
0W
0 Ah
Lithium LiFePO4
Pompe, Leds, Frigo...
NON REQUI
SHOPPING LIST
Where to find this equipment? Here is the community-approved selection.
12V 6-way Fuse Box
Mandatory protection
Digital Multimeter
Test your connections
Heavy Duty Crimping Tool
For perfect lugs
Heat Shrink Tubing
Insulation and safety
I've built three vans on 12V systems, and honestly, if I were starting a large build today — anything over 400Ah at 12V — I'd seriously consider going 48V instead. The Epoch V2 Elite is a good example of why.
The biggest win is cable sizing. At 12V, a 3,000W inverter pulls around 250A, which means you need 70mm² cables just from battery to inverter, and those cables are expensive, stiff, and a pain to route. At 48V, that same 3,000W is only ~63A, so you're down to 16mm² cables. Cheaper, lighter, easier to work with. Your fuses get smaller too.
The Bluetooth app gives you real-time SOC, voltage, current, cell balance, and temperature — no separate shunt monitor needed. The CAN Bus port means it talks directly to compatible inverter/chargers like Victron Quattro or EG4 units, so the charger knows exact battery state without guessing.
Now the gotchas. At 48V, your entire DC system changes. You can't just swap this into a van wired for 12V — your lights, fans, water pump, fridge, all that stuff runs on 12V. So you'll need a 48V-to-12V DC-DC converter for your house loads, which adds cost and a potential failure point. Most people running 48V are doing it specifically because they have big inverter loads (induction cooktop, AC, power tools) and keep a small 12V subsystem for the basics.
The ~$2,000 price tag sounds steep until you price out four quality 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries plus the bus bars, interconnect cables, and the extra fusing. You'll land around $1,600-2,400 for the 12V route anyway, without Bluetooth on every cell or integrated heating. For builds under 200Ah at 12V, this is overkill. But for the big rigs pulling serious power, the Epoch 48V is a clean solution.
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