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Results based on a typical use case
| Appliance | Power | Usage/day | Wh/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression fridge | 45W | 24h | 1080 |
| LED lighting | 20W | 4h | 80 |
| Water pump | 30W | 0.5h | 15 |
| Phone charging | 15W | 2h | 30 |
| Daily consumption | 1205 Wh | ||
Adjust these values with the calculator below
YOUR ENERGY PROFILE.
This document contains the sizing of your future electrical installation, calculated based on your appliances.
Inventory:
To guarantee 0WH without damaging your bank (80% max discharge):
Minimum power required to recharge your consumption:
Maximum power (with 25% safety margin).
Use this professional reference table to select the correct gauge (mm²) for your cables. For 12V in a van, the maximum tolerated voltage drop is 3%. Always use multi-stranded flexible automotive wire.
| Current (A) | Round trip < 2m | Round trip 4m | Round trip 6m |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5A (LEDs, USB) | 1.5 mm² | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² |
| 10A (Fridge, Pump) | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² | 6 mm² |
| 20A (Heater) | 4 mm² | 10 mm² | 10 mm² |
| 50A (DC/DC Booster) | 10 mm² | 16 mm² | 25 mm² |
| 100A (Inverter) | 25 mm² | 35 mm² | 50 mm² |
The fuse protects the wire, not the appliance. Always place it as close to the power source as possible (battery or busbar).
0W
0 Ah
Lithium LiFePO4
Pompe, Leds, Frigo...
NON REQUI
SHOPPING LIST
Where to find this equipment? Here is the community-approved selection.
12V 6-way Fuse Box
Mandatory protection
Digital Multimeter
Test your connections
Heavy Duty Crimping Tool
For perfect lugs
Heat Shrink Tubing
Insulation and safety
I ran into this exact problem on my second van build. Brand new 200Ah LiFePO4 bank, Victron 100/30 MPPT, 400W of panels — and VictronConnect kept telling me the battery was full by 10am. Meanwhile, my fridge was shutting down by midnight. Took me two days to realize I'd left the battery profile on "gel" from testing.
Here's the systematic diagnosis I use now:
Measure actual battery voltage with a multimeter at the battery terminals, not through the MPPT display. If you read 13.2V and the controller says 14.4V, you have a wiring resistance problem.
Verify the charge profile. For LiFePO4: absorption at 14.6V, float at 13.6V (or disable float entirely). For AGM: absorption at 14.4V, float at 13.6V.
Check if the MPPT is actually outputting current. An MPPT showing 0A but claiming the battery is full means it genuinely thinks charging is done. If your multimeter shows 13.0V at the battery — that's your smoking gun.
Temperature sensor test. Disconnect your external temp sensor. If the MPPT immediately starts pushing more current, the sensor is either faulty or placed somewhere that reads too hot.
Reset your SOC monitor. Fully charge the battery to a verified 14.6V, let it rest, then manually sync your shunt to 100%.
One edge case that got me: if you have two MPPT controllers on the same bank, one can see the other's charging voltage and assume the battery is full. Solution: set slightly different absorption voltages (14.6V and 14.5V) so they don't confuse each other.
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