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Results based on a typical use case
| Appliance | Power | Usage/day | Wh/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression fridge | 45W | 24h | 1080 |
| LED lighting | 20W | 4h | 80 |
| Water pump | 30W | 0.5h | 15 |
| Phone charging | 15W | 2h | 30 |
| Daily consumption | 1205 Wh | ||
Adjust these values with the calculator below
YOUR ENERGY PROFILE.
This document contains the sizing of your future electrical installation, calculated based on your appliances.
Inventory:
To guarantee 0WH without damaging your bank (80% max discharge):
Minimum power required to recharge your consumption:
Maximum power (with 25% safety margin).
Use this professional reference table to select the correct gauge (mm²) for your cables. For 12V in a van, the maximum tolerated voltage drop is 3%. Always use multi-stranded flexible automotive wire.
| Current (A) | Round trip < 2m | Round trip 4m | Round trip 6m |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5A (LEDs, USB) | 1.5 mm² | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² |
| 10A (Fridge, Pump) | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² | 6 mm² |
| 20A (Heater) | 4 mm² | 10 mm² | 10 mm² |
| 50A (DC/DC Booster) | 10 mm² | 16 mm² | 25 mm² |
| 100A (Inverter) | 25 mm² | 35 mm² | 50 mm² |
The fuse protects the wire, not the appliance. Always place it as close to the power source as possible (battery or busbar).
0W
0 Ah
Lithium LiFePO4
Pompe, Leds, Frigo...
NON REQUI
SHOPPING LIST
Where to find this equipment? Here is the community-approved selection.
12V 6-way Fuse Box
Mandatory protection
Digital Multimeter
Test your connections
Heavy Duty Crimping Tool
For perfect lugs
Heat Shrink Tubing
Insulation and safety
I've debugged maybe 30 of these "my battery dies early" cases in online forums and on friends' builds. Here's the breakdown by frequency.
Cause #1: Cold temperature (40% of cases). LiFePO4 cells lose 10-20% capacity at 0°C compared to 25°C. Add a 50A load and cell voltage sags below the BMS cutoff threshold (typically 2.5V per cell, or 10V on a 12V pack). Solution: insulate the battery box, add a small heating pad (5-10W), or relocate inside the living area where body heat keeps it above 5°C.
Cause #2: High current draw (25% of cases). Your BMS has a maximum discharge current -- often 100A on budget batteries, 200A on premium ones. An inverter startup surge or a stuck compressor can pull 2-3x rated current for a few seconds. If that exceeds the BMS limit, it shuts down. Fix: check your BMS specs, add a soft-start to your inverter, or upgrade to a battery with higher discharge rating.
Cause #3: Cell imbalance (20% of cases). After months of partial cycling (never fully charging to 14.6V), individual cells drift apart. One cell hits the low-voltage cutoff while others still have charge. The BMS sees one bad cell and kills the whole pack. Fix: do a full charge to 14.6V and hold it there for 2-4 hours. The BMS balancers (typically 30-100mA) will equalize the cells. Repeat monthly.
Cause #4: Wrong SOC calibration (10% of cases). Coulomb-counting shunts (Victron SmartShunt, etc.) need periodic recalibration. If the shunt thinks 100% is 12.8V but the battery actually reached 14.6V, all readings are off. Fix: fully charge to 14.6V, let the battery rest 30 minutes, then manually sync the shunt to 100%.
Cause #5: Actual degradation (5% of cases). After 2000+ cycles or exposure to extreme conditions, real capacity drops. A battery rated 200Ah might deliver only 160Ah. Test by fully charging, then discharging at a known rate (e.g., 10A) while timing. 200Ah should deliver 10A for 20 hours. If it lasts only 16 hours, you've got 160Ah actual capacity.