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Results based on a typical use case
| Appliance | Power | Usage/day | Wh/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression fridge | 45W | 24h | 1080 |
| LED lighting | 20W | 4h | 80 |
| Water pump | 30W | 0.5h | 15 |
| Phone charging | 15W | 2h | 30 |
| Daily consumption | 1205 Wh | ||
Adjust these values with the calculator below
YOUR ENERGY PROFILE.
This document contains the sizing of your future electrical installation, calculated based on your appliances.
Inventory:
To guarantee 0WH without damaging your bank (80% max discharge):
Minimum power required to recharge your consumption:
Maximum power (with 25% safety margin).
Use this professional reference table to select the correct gauge (mm²) for your cables. For 12V in a van, the maximum tolerated voltage drop is 3%. Always use multi-stranded flexible automotive wire.
| Current (A) | Round trip < 2m | Round trip 4m | Round trip 6m |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5A (LEDs, USB) | 1.5 mm² | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² |
| 10A (Fridge, Pump) | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² | 6 mm² |
| 20A (Heater) | 4 mm² | 10 mm² | 10 mm² |
| 50A (DC/DC Booster) | 10 mm² | 16 mm² | 25 mm² |
| 100A (Inverter) | 25 mm² | 35 mm² | 50 mm² |
The fuse protects the wire, not the appliance. Always place it as close to the power source as possible (battery or busbar).
0W
0 Ah
Lithium LiFePO4
Pompe, Leds, Frigo...
NON REQUI
SHOPPING LIST
Where to find this equipment? Here is the community-approved selection.
12V 6-way Fuse Box
Mandatory protection
Digital Multimeter
Test your connections
Heavy Duty Crimping Tool
For perfect lugs
Heat Shrink Tubing
Insulation and safety
Here's what I check, in order, every time a BCDC1280 won't charge from solar.
1. Input voltage out of range. The MPPT input window is 9–32V Voc. Measure at the solar terminals with a multimeter — engine off, panels in direct sun, nothing connected. If you're above 32V, you've wired two panels in series. Re-wire in parallel. If you're below 14V (roughly), conditions are too poor or the panels are shaded. The unit won't attempt a charge cycle.
2. Battery already near full. The BCDC1280 reduces and eventually stops solar input when the house battery is above about 14.4–14.6V. This looks like "solar not working" but is actually correct absorption cutoff behaviour. Check the LED: a slow flashing green means absorption stage — the charger is backing off intentionally.
3. Flashing green but no measurable current. This is the frustrating one. The green LED flashes, the unit looks active, but a clamp meter on the solar cable shows 0A. Nine times out of ten: the panel cable connectors (MC4 or Amphenol) are not fully locked. Pull them apart and reconnect with an audible click. Also check that your solar cable fuse has not blown — a 15A inline fuse on the solar positive is standard, and a partial short can blow it without obvious signs.
4. Wrong panel type or degraded flexible panels. The BCDC1280 MPPT works correctly with standard crystalline panels. Some thin-film and flexible panels have unusual I-V curves that confuse budget MPPT controllers. Redarc's MPPT handles this well in my experience, but heavily degraded flexible panels — especially ones that have been baking on a dark roof without an air gap for 2–3 seasons — can output strange voltages under load. If your flexible panels are more than 3 years old, test them with a known-good rigid panel before assuming the charger is at fault.
5. Temperature-induced Voc spike. Cold morning, fresh panels in bright sun: Voc on a 200W mono panel can hit 25–26V. That is still within range. But if someone has wired two 24V nominal panels in parallel, cold-morning Voc can push toward 35–38V. Brief over-voltage events at startup can trigger the BCDC1280's protection mode, which requires a power cycle to clear. If the unit works fine in the afternoon but not in the morning, this is almost certainly the cause. Fix it by checking cold-weather Voc on your exact panel spec sheet — or switch to panels with lower Voc.
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