The Power Audit: Your #1 Tool
Every camper van battery question starts and ends with one thing: how much power do YOU actually use? Not what a blog tells you, not what your neighbor's van uses — your actual daily consumption in watt-hours. Without this number, you're guessing with hundreds of dollars on the line.
Step 1: List Every Device
Create a spreadsheet with four columns: Device, Watts, Hours/Day, and Wh/Day. Here's a realistic example for a full-time van dweller:
- Compressor fridge (Dometic CFX 45): 45W × 10h = 450 Wh
- MaxxAir fan: 30W × 8h = 240 Wh
- Diesel heater fan: 25W × 6h = 150 Wh
- LED lighting: 20W × 4h = 80 Wh
- Water pump: 60W × 0.3h = 18 Wh
- Phone/laptop charging: 100 Wh (flat)
- Starlink Mini: 30W × 8h = 240 Wh
- Total: ~1,278 Wh/day
Step 2: Convert to Battery Capacity
Divide total Wh by your battery's nominal voltage: 1,278 ÷ 12.8V = 100 Ah per day. For 2 days of autonomy without any charging: 100 × 2 = 200 Ah. With LiFePO4 (95% usable depth of discharge), a 200Ah battery gives you exactly that. With AGM (50% usable), you'd need 400Ah — twice the weight and cost.
One Battery or Multiple?
For most van builds, a single high-capacity LiFePO4 battery (200-300Ah) is simpler and more reliable than paralleling multiple smaller ones. Parallel batteries must be identical in brand, capacity, age, and state of health — if one battery is slightly weaker, it becomes a parasitic load on the others, causing premature BMS shutdowns. If you absolutely need more than 300Ah, use two identical batteries from the same production batch with matched internal resistance.
YOUR ENERGY PROFILE.
This document contains the sizing of your future electrical installation, calculated based on your appliances.
Inventory:
Battery
To guarantee 0WH without damaging your bank (80% max discharge):
Solar
Minimum power required to recharge your consumption:
220V AC
Maximum power (with 25% safety margin).
12V Cable Sizing Guide
Use this professional reference table to select the correct gauge (mm²) for your cables. For 12V in a van, the maximum tolerated voltage drop is 3%. Always use multi-stranded flexible automotive wire.
| Current (A) | Round trip < 2m | Round trip 4m | Round trip 6m |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5A (LEDs, USB) | 1.5 mm² | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² |
| 10A (Fridge, Pump) | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² | 6 mm² |
| 20A (Heater) | 4 mm² | 10 mm² | 10 mm² |
| 50A (DC/DC Booster) | 10 mm² | 16 mm² | 25 mm² |
| 100A (Inverter) | 25 mm² | 35 mm² | 50 mm² |
Fuse Sizing
The fuse protects the wire, not the appliance. Always place it as close to the power source as possible (battery or busbar).
- Wire 1.5 mm² → Max fuse 10A
- Wire 2.5 mm² → Max fuse 20A
- Wire 4 mm² → Max fuse 30A
- Wire 6 mm² → Max fuse 40A
- Wire 10 mm² → Max fuse 60A
SCHÉMA ÉLECTRIQUE
PANNEAUX SOLAIRES
0W
REGULATEUR MPPT
BATTERIE AUXILIAIRE
0 Ah
Lithium LiFePO4
BOÎTE À FUSIBLES 12V
Pompe, Leds, Frigo...
CONVERTISSEUR 220V
NON REQUI
SHOPPING LIST
Where to find this equipment? Here is the community-approved selection.
12V 6-way Fuse Box
Mandatory protection
Digital Multimeter
Test your connections
Heavy Duty Crimping Tool
For perfect lugs
Heat Shrink Tubing
Insulation and safety
Comparison table
| Van Setup | Daily Use (Wh) | Battery (LiFePO4) | Battery (AGM equiv.) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Weekend warrior | 400-600 Wh | 100Ah | 200Ah |
| Part-time vanlife | 700-900 Wh | 200Ah | 400Ah |
| Full-time + Starlink | 1000-1300 Wh | 300Ah | 600Ah |
| Digital nomad + AC | 1500-2000 Wh | 400Ah+ | Not practical |
About this tool
Determining how many batteries you need for a DIY campervan build comes down to answering three questions in sequence: how much energy do you use per day, how many days should you run without recharging, and what chemistry are you using?
Step 1: Real daily consumption. The most common mistake is underestimating — especially the refrigerator and laptop. A 12V compressor fridge (most recommended for vans) cycles on and off throughout the day. At 22°C ambient, it might run 40% of the time at 50W = 480Wh/day. At 30°C summer ambient with frequent opening, that easily becomes 600-700Wh/day. Add: laptop 7 hours (70W × 7 = 490Wh), LED lights evening (25W × 4h = 100Wh), phone and accessories (50Wh), water pump (15Wh), diesel heater (100Wh in winter). Total: 1255Wh/day for a comfortable full-time setup.
Step 2: Autonomy days. For a van with 300W solar in France (4h PSH × 0.8 efficiency = 960Wh/day production), deficit vs consumption = 295Wh/day. On a cloudy travel day with no sun: full 1255Wh comes from battery. Two cloudy days = 2510Wh from battery with no recharge. Plan for 2-3 days of zero-solar autonomy.
Step 3: Battery size. For 2.5 days at 1255Wh/day: 3137Wh stored needed. LiFePO4 at 100% DOD usable: 3137Wh ÷ 12V = 261Ah. Choose 300Ah (provides 10% headroom and accounts for minor capacity degradation over years). Options: one 300Ah unit (€700-900) or two 150Ah in parallel (€400-600).
Parallel battery banks — making the right choice: two batteries in parallel should ideally be identical (same manufacturer, capacity, and ideally same batch) to ensure balanced charge sharing. Mismatched batteries in parallel have different internal resistances — the lower-resistance battery receives more charge/discharge current, degrading faster. If adding a second battery to an existing system, match manufacturer recommendations closely.
The 12V vs 24V decision for battery banks: most DIY van builds use 12V because it simplifies the appliance ecosystem (12V compressor fridge, 12V fans, 12V LED circuits). 24V makes sense when inverter loads are large (3000W+ true off-grid setups) since halved current = halved wire size requirements. Hybrid: use 12V for house loads and 24V nominal batteries with a 24V-to-12V DC-DC for 12V appliances.
BMS (Battery Management System) compatibility when paralleling: each battery must have its own BMS unless you're building from raw cells. Two batteries with internal BMS in parallel can create current races during reconnection — the higher-charge battery pushes current into the lower one, potentially causing one BMS to trip on overcurrent. Best practice: charge both to identical voltage before connecting in parallel, or use a Victron Lynx Shunt + Distributor for managed parallel connections.