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Results based on a typical use case
| Appliance | Power | Usage/day | Wh/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression fridge | 45W | 24h | 1080 |
| LED lighting | 20W | 4h | 80 |
| Water pump | 30W | 0.5h | 15 |
| Phone charging | 15W | 2h | 30 |
| Daily consumption | 1205 Wh | ||
Adjust these values with the calculator below
YOUR ENERGY PROFILE.
This document contains the sizing of your future electrical installation, calculated based on your appliances.
Inventory:
To guarantee 0WH without damaging your bank (80% max discharge):
Minimum power required to recharge your consumption:
Maximum power (with 25% safety margin).
Use this professional reference table to select the correct gauge (mm²) for your cables. For 12V in a van, the maximum tolerated voltage drop is 3%. Always use multi-stranded flexible automotive wire.
| Current (A) | Round trip < 2m | Round trip 4m | Round trip 6m |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5A (LEDs, USB) | 1.5 mm² | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² |
| 10A (Fridge, Pump) | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² | 6 mm² |
| 20A (Heater) | 4 mm² | 10 mm² | 10 mm² |
| 50A (DC/DC Booster) | 10 mm² | 16 mm² | 25 mm² |
| 100A (Inverter) | 25 mm² | 35 mm² | 50 mm² |
The fuse protects the wire, not the appliance. Always place it as close to the power source as possible (battery or busbar).
0W
0 Ah
Lithium LiFePO4
Pompe, Leds, Frigo...
NON REQUI
SHOPPING LIST
Where to find this equipment? Here is the community-approved selection.
12V 6-way Fuse Box
Mandatory protection
Digital Multimeter
Test your connections
Heavy Duty Crimping Tool
For perfect lugs
Heat Shrink Tubing
Insulation and safety
I see this confusion constantly in van build forums: someone buys a 100Ah AGM battery thinking they have 100Ah to play with, then wonders why their fridge dies after one night. Let me break down why.
First, depth of discharge. AGM batteries should only be drained to 50% regularly, or you'll kill them in under a year. So your 100Ah AGM is really a 50Ah battery. LiFePO4 handles 80-95% DoD across 3,000-5,000 cycles, so a 100Ah lithium gives you 80-95Ah of real power. Right there, same "100Ah" label, but lithium gives you nearly double the usable energy.
Second, voltage sag matters. As an AGM discharges, voltage drops from 12.6V down toward 12.0V. Some devices — especially inverters — start acting weird below 12.0V. LiFePO4 holds a flat 12.8-13.2V for most of its discharge curve, then drops off a cliff near empty. That flat curve means your inverter runs more efficiently across the whole cycle.
Here's a real day from my setup. Compressor fridge: ~45Ah. LED lights (6 puck lights, 3W each, 5 hours): ~7.5Ah. Laptop charging: ~15Ah. Phone and misc USB: ~5Ah. Diesel heater fan in winter: ~8Ah. Total: roughly 80Ah on a normal day. On a lazy summer day with no laptop, maybe 55Ah. Cooking day with the induction plate through the inverter? Could hit 130Ah.
The inverter introduces another wrinkle. Inverters are typically 85-90% efficient, so if you're running a 500W appliance through an inverter, you're actually pulling about 570W from your battery. Always add that 10-15% inefficiency tax when calculating Ah for AC loads.
My rule of thumb: take your calculated daily consumption, multiply by 1.2 for safety margin, and that's your minimum usable battery capacity. Want two days of autonomy without solar? Double it.
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